Kathakali in Kerala

One of our most memorable experiences in Kerala was watching a demonstration of Kathakali, the South Indian classical dance-drama art which originated and developed since the 17th century, with its roots in ancient folk arts, and looks like a cross between kabuki theater and silent screen films enacted onstage.

It all begins with the lead actor undergoing an elaborate process of face painting for two hours. This results in a terrifying mask that completely obscures him, and is then completed with a braided wig and full skirts, the latter reminiscent of Japanese theater.

Unlike kabuki or noh, however, the actor is supposed to be completely agile with every part of his face and body--the video uploaded at the bottom demonstrates the eye, lip, eyebrow, finger, hand, etc. motions that each Kathakali performer practices in front of the mirror, every day, since childhood (however, Kathakali can't be done before the age of ten because the eyes can become permanently crossed). This is one of the five components of Kathakali called Expressions.

We were then treated to an eerily overdone demonstration of the Kathakali performer's stylized and outsized pantomime performances of major emotions and states (sad, happy) and more whimsical routines such as "salesman calling people into store" and "bee circling flower."

Finally came the main performance, known as Nithyam--a drama show with an emphasis on hand gestures (the hands, legs and body also move rhythmically but fairly quickly, unlike the bizarre slow motion of kabuki). This was a reenactment of an excerpt of the Mahabharata epic with the performer assuming the roles of both the hero and the demon he was fighting. By the way, all the performances were accompanied by the rhythmic beating of the tabla (drums).

All in all, it was forty-five minutes of the most unusual and slightly scary art form I've ever seen, enhanced by the complete silence by the actors--it's remarkable how this speaking element of the performance has come to be expected in the Western world, while highly stylized, overblown pantomime acting is very much a curiosity.