While the temples described below enlightened and entertained us, the justly famous Indo-Tibetan temple complex at Alchi was an experience on a whole new level.
Originally built in the 11th century, with extant frescoes dating back to the 1500s and 1600s, it was commissioned by Ladakhi kings and used skilled Kashmiri and Nepalese artisans. The coloring, the design, the draughtsmanship--all are definitely more refined than at the other temples.
The complex is called Indo-Tibetan because both the wooden architecture of the temples and the frescoes inside owe much to Indian rather than local art. We decided, though, that the frescoes--multiple Buddhas, arhats, or Buddhas' students, and the many creatures that stand guard against Buddhism's enemies and destroy them--looked most of all like a cross between Persian miniatures and medieval European painting. The images can be awesome and frightening or just whimsical (our book explained that the funny creatures are there to illustrate the concept of not taking anything too seriously).
The town of Alchi itself is lovely--there are numerous white chortens (stupas made of mud and brick) and golden prayer wheels surrounding the four main temples, all on the bank of a river flanked by tall, multi-colored mountains. It is the second-most popular place in Ladakh, justly so, but still retains its peaceful character (the monks, however, much like Russian museum guards, in Misha's estimation, are surly, sick of visitors, and like to close 20 minutes early).
In the evening, we walked through the center of the village, admiring the sun setting against the mountains and the Brueghelesque scene of farmers reaping wheat, seen at the top.
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